The excitement with stem cells is the idea that they will regenerate themselves or make whatever tissue we tell them to make and therefore as far as anti ageing goes we could get the “forever young”
It is quite complex though with differences between pluripotent embryonic stem cells and multipotent adult stem cells.
Stem cells in our skin are adult multipotent and are located in three places (just above the dermal epidermal junction and below, and in the dermal papilla.)
The problem is to get from a multipotent stem cell to a pluripotent you have to put chemicals in and as yet there is no control of this process.
Stem cells are currently used in hematology, burn therapy, bone grafting and corneal transplants and are in development for a number of different conditions.
Conceptually, you could place stem cells directly on the skin, but if taking these out be it from human, mouse,or plant the cells will be dead. And how do you get them into the skin?
What is important in skin care are the “stem cell actives” that stem cells make. They make messengers such as cytokines and growth factors, so for skin care products it would be about taking what the cells excrete and then put in products with other beneficial actives. Not as easy as it sounds as need to stabilise the products and of course make sure they get delivered into the skin on application
Stem cell actives must
- Induce growth and differentiation
- Encourage new tissue growth and healing
- Encourage maintenance and repair rather than breakdown
At the forefront and critical in skin care technology
Our skin is an amazing organ and it is about how we are influencing cells. It is the communication between the cells in the epidermis and the dermis. We used to think everything had to get to the dermis, but now know this is not the case. The keratinocytes in the epidermis are very important and we need to protect the epidermis. We need to protect against inflammation and irritation and this is the way skin care is moving. Rather than over exfoliating and working from the top down which was always the focus we need to REBUILD and strengthen from the bottom up and control inflammation.
Cytokine science is generally new. Growth and development, wound healing and regeneration and ageing are some of the things that all share a common set of molecular signalling mediators, collectievely called cytokines, and included in this term are hundreds of protiens, peptides, growth factors etc.
We have over 200 cell types and cells talk and listen or both in a cellular communication and the words of this language are cytokines.
There have been studies that demonstrate skin benefits with topical cytokines and growth factors, and that in addition to their role in cutaneous wound healing are beneficial for skin rejuvenation, with improved texture and reduction in wrinkles.
New From PCA
Total strength serum (rrp $154)
A next generation peptide blend along with epidermal growth factors to tighten, strengthen and firm the skin.
- Will strengthen skin structure and increase collagen production
- When used twice daily helps reduce loss of elasticity and minimises pores due to loss of elasticity
- Combines a unique peptide blend with epidermal growth factors providing an ideal anti-ageing formula with a cosmetically elegant feel.
One of the most compelling new ingredients included in the new total strength serum is the newest generation blend of matrix-building peptides, palmitoyl tripeptide-38. This newly developed amino acid chain has demonstrated the ability to increase the production of six highly important dermal and epidermal components
- Collagen 1V
- Hyaluronic acid
- Laminin 5
You can expect to see a lifting, smoothing effect when used twice daily, and a noticeable reduction in wrinkle volume, a firming of the skin and an improvement in texture.
Exlinea serum by PCA (rrp $184)
Not new but another fantastic product and if used together with the total strength serum it really is the dynamic duo as each product utilise different peptides.
Exlinea is a peptide smoothing serum which synergistically hydrates, smoothes and firms ageing skin, and contains the peptide Acetyl Hexapeptide -8(argireline) that works by relaxing the facial muscles that cause repeated facial expressions and wrinkling. You get an immediate tightening and lifting effect.
Exlinea is used to spot-treat areas of fine lines and wrinkles such as crows feet and frown lines, and upper lip lines. It can be used alone or for optimal benefit follow with a full face application of total strength serum.
Ideal for those that may not want to have botox, but also perfect to use alongside botox for enhanced results, and some patients report it helps to make their botox last longer!